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Steering and Suspension

The suspension and steering systems are what allow the wheels to move and turn for a smooth ride, stability and directional control See Fig. 14.

Fig. 14.The suspension and steering system gives the driver control over the car by supplying constant feedback on the car's reactions.

The suspension system is the combination of springs, shock absorbers, and other stabilizing devices that support the weight of the car and cushion the effects of bumps. On some models, stabilizer bars aid stability by transferring some of the cornering force acting on the suspension

The steering system consists of the steering rack mechanisms, linkages, and a belt-driven hydraulic pump. Power-assisted steering uses hydraulic fluid under pressure to do some of the work normally done by the driver turning the steering wheel.

Body

The body is the basic building block. All of the Saab models covered in this manual feature unitized body construction, meaning that they do not have a separate frame. A complex body shell is the main structural platform to which all the other systems are attached. Subassemblies attach engine, drivetrain, suspension, and steering systems to the basic body structure.

The doors, the instrument panel, the seats, and other interior trim pieces a real so added to the body shell. Other parts of the body shell function as mounting points for the other major and minor subsystems.

HOW TO USETHIS MANUAL

The manual is divided into 9 sections:

0 TECHNICAL DATA

1 LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE

2 ENGINE

3 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

4 TRANSMISSION

5 BRAKES

6 STEERING AND WHEEL ALIGNMENT

7 SUSPENSION

8 BODY AND STEERING

0 TECHNICAL DATA lists all of the specifications used throughout the manual and is intended to be used as a quick reference guide for the more experienced technician familiar with Saab 900 cars. 1 LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE covers the maintenance schedules and service procedures needed to do all of the Saab recommended scheduled maintenance work.

There maining seven sections (2 through 8) are repair oriented and are divided into multiple repair groups. For clarity and ease of use, each major section begins with a General repair group,e.g. 200 Engine—General. These"00" (double zero) groups are mostly descriptive in nature, covering topics such as theory of operation and troubleshooting. The remainder of there pair groups contain the more involved and more detailed system repair information.

A master listing of the 9 sections and the corresponding 69 individual repair groups can be found at the beginning of each section. Thumb tabs on the first page of each repair group page help locate the groups quickly.

Each repair group has its own Table of Contents listing the major subject headings within the group, and the pages on which they begin. Page numbers throughout the manual are organized according to the repair group system. For example, you can expect to find information on the turbocharger (Repair Group 291) beginning on page 291-1. A comprehensive index is found at the back of the manual.

Warnings, Cautions and Notes

Throughout this manual are many passages with the headings WARNING, CAUTION, or NOTE. These very important headings have different meanings.

WARNING

A warning is the most senous of the three. It warns of unsafe practices that are very likely to cause injury, either by direct threat to the person(s) doing the work or by increased risk of accident or mechanical failure while driving

CAUTION

A caution calls attention to important precautions to be observed durinng the repair work that will help prevent accidental by damaging the car or its parts

NOTE

A note contains helpful information, tips that will help in doing a better job and completing it more easily

Please read every WARNING, CAUTION, and NOTE at the front of the manual and as they appear in repair procedures. They are very important. Read them before you begin any maintenance or repair job

Somewarnings andcautions are repeated wherever they apply. Read them all. Do not skip any. These messages are important, even to the owner who never intends to work on the car

GETTING STARTED

Most of the necessary maintenance and minor repair that a Saab will need can be done with ordinary tools, even by owners with little or no experience in car repair. Below is some important information on how to work safely, a discussion of what tools will be needed and how to use them, and a series of mechanic's tips on methods and workmanship.

Safety

Although an automobile presents many hazards, common sense and good equipment can ensure safety. Accidents happen because of carelessness. Pay attention and stick to these few important safety rules

WARNING

• Remove rings, watches, and bracelets. A side from the dangers of moving parts, metallic jewelry conducts electricity and may cause shorts, sparks, bums, or damage to the electrical system when accidentally contacting the battery or other electrical terminals

• Disconnect the battery negative (-) cable whenever working on or near the fuel system or anything that is electrically powered. Accidental electrical contact may damage the electncal system or cause fire

• Never work under a lifted car unless it is solidly supported on jack stands that are intended for that purpose. Do not support a car on cinder blocks, bncks, or other objects that may shift or crumble under continuous load. Never work under a car that is supported only by the lifting jack

• The fuel system is designed to retain pressure even when the ignition is off When working with the fuel system, loosen the fuel lines very slowly to allow the residual pressure to dissipate gradually. Avoid spraying fuel

• Fuel is highly flammable. When working around fuel, do not smoke or work near heaters or other fire hazards. Keep an approved fire extinguisher handy

• Illuminate the work are adequately and safely. Use a portable safety light for working inside or under the car. A fluorescent type light is best because it gives off less heat. If using a light with a normal incandescent bulb, use rough service bulbs to avoid breakage. The hot filament of an accidentally broken bulb can ignite spilled fuel or oil

• Keep sparks, lighted matches, and open flame away from the top of the battery. Hydrogen gas emitted by the battery is highly flammable. Any nearby source of ignition may cause the battery to explode

• Never lay tools or parts in the engine compartment or on top of the battery. They may fall into confined spaces and be difficult to retrieve, become caught in belts or other rotating parts when the engine is started, or cause electrical shorts and damage to the electrical system

• Some of the cars covered by this manual are equipped with a Supplemental Restraint System (SRS) that automatically deploys an airbag. The airbag unit uses an explosive device to electrically ignite a powerful gas. On cars so equipped, any work involving the steering wheel should only be performed by an authorized Saab dealer. Performing repairs without disarming the SRS may cause serious personal injury

WARNING

• Never run the engine in the work area unless it is well-ventilated. The exhaust should be vented to the outside. Carbon Monoxide (CO) in the exhaust kills

• Remove all neckties, scarfs, loose clothing or jewelry when working near running engines or power tools. Tuck in shirts. Tie long hair and secure it under a cap. Severe injury can result from these things being caught in rotating parts

Lifting the Car

For those repairs that require raising the car, the proper jacking points should be used to raise the car safely and avoid damage. There are six Jacking points from which the car can be safely raised The Jack supplied with the car by Saab can only be used at the four side points—just behind the front wheel or just in front of the rear wheel. In addition to the four side points, there are front and rear center Jacking points that can be used to lift one end See Fig 15

Fig. 15.Saab jackingpoints

CAUTION

When raising the car using a floor jack or a hydraulic lift, carefully position the Jack pad so that it does not damage the body. A suitable liner (wood, rubber etc) should be placed between the jack and the car so that the underbody will not be damaged

WARNING

Watch the jack closely. Make it stays stable and does not shift or tilt. As the car is raised, the car will want to roll slightly and the jack will want to shift

To raise car safely

1. Park the car on a flat, level surface.

2. Place the jack in position. See Fig. 16. Make sure the jack is resting on flat, solid ground. Use a board or other support to providea firm surface for the jack, if necessary.

Fig. 16. Saab-supplied jack correctly installed at front left jacking point

3. Raise the car slowly.

4. Once the car is raised, block the wheel that is opposite and farthest from the Jack to preventthe car from unexpectedly rolling.

WARNING

Do not rely on the transmission or the emergency brake to keep the car from rolling. While they will help, they are not a substitute for positively blocking the opposite wheel

Never work under a car that is supported only by a jack. Use jack stands that are properly designed to support the car. See Tools.

To work safely under a car

1. Disconnect the battery negative (-) cable so that no one else can start the car. Let others know what you will be doing.

2. Raise the car slowly as described above.

3. Use at least two jack stands to support the car. A jack is a temporary lifting device and should not be used alone to support the car while you are under it. Use positively locking Jack stands that are designed for the purpose of supporting a car. For more information on jack stands, see Tools below.

4. Place Jack stands on a firm, solid surface, Just like the Jack.If necessary, use a flat board or similar solid object to provide a firm footing

5. After placing the Jack stands, lower the car slowly until its weight is fully supported by the jack stands. Watch to make sure that the Jack stands do not tip or lean as the car settles on them, and that they are placed solidly and will not move.

6. Observe all Jacking precautions again when raising the car to remove the Jack stands.

WARNING

Do not use wood, concrete blocks, or bncks to support a car. Wood may split Blocks or bncks, while strong, are not designed for that kind of load, and may break or collapse

Non-reusable Fasteners

Many fasteners used on the cars covered by this manual must be replaced with new ones when they are removed. These include but are not limited to: bolts, nuts(self-locking, nylock etc.), cotter pins, studs, brake fittings, roll pins, pins, clips and washers. Genuine Saab parts should only be used for this purpose.

Some bolts, for example, are designed to stretch during assembly and are permanently altered rendering them unusable again. Always replace fasteners where instructed to do so. See an authorized Saab dealer for applications and ordering information

GENERAL ADVICE FOR THE beginner

The tips in the paragraphs that follow are general advice to help any do-it-yourself Saab owner perform repairs and maintenance tasks more easily and more professionally.

Planning Ahead

Most of the repairs and maintenance tasks described in this manual can be successfully completed by anyone with basic tools and abilities. Some can not. To prevent getting in too deep, know what the whole job requires before starting. Read the procedure thoroughly, from beginning to end, in order to know Just what to expect and what parts will have to be replaced.

Cleanliness

Keeping things organized, neat, and clean is essential to doing a good Job, and a more satisfying way to work. When working under the hood, fender covers will protect the finish from scratches and other damage. Make sure the car is relatively clean so that dirt under the cover does not scratch

Avoid getting tools or clothing near the battery. Battery electrolyte is a corrosive acid. Be careful with brake fluid, as it can cause permanent damage to the car's paint. Finally, keep rubber parts such as hoses and belts free from oil or gasoline, as they will cause the material to soften and fail prematurely

Tightening Fasteners

When tightening the bolts or nuts that attach a component, it is always good practice to tighten the bolts gradually and evenly to avoid misalignment or over stressing any one portion of the component. For components sealed with gaskets, this method helps to ensure that the gasket will seal properly and completely.

Where there are several fasteners, tighten them in a sequence alternating between opposite sides of the component Fig. 17 shows such a sequence for tightening six bolts attaching a typical component. Repeat the sequence until all the bolts are evenly tightened to the proper specification.

Fig. 17. Sequence for alternately tightening multiple fasteners

For some repairs a specific tightening sequence is necessary, or a particular order of assembly is required. Such special conditions are noted in the text, and the necessary sequence is described or illustrated.

Bolt Torque

Tightening fasteners to a specified torque value using a torque wrench is a good way to ensure that bolts are correctly tightened. If a torque wrench is not used there is a danger of going too far and damaging the fastener or the threads in the mating part.

Too little torque on a fastener can also cause problems. Vibration of assembled parts can subject fasteners to stress alternating in opposite directions that will eventually cause them to loosen. To counter this loosening, fasteners are tightened more and actually stretched a small amount.

When special tightening torques are required, they are listed in the text where the fastener is being installed. If there is no torque listed for a specific fastener, use Table a as a general guide. The sizes listed are for the bolt thread diameter, not the size of the wrench. Table b lists the most common wrench sizes for the bolts used on the cars covered by this manual.

Table a. General Tightening Torques (unless note do the wise in text)

Bolt diameter Nm ft-lb
M5 5 3 5 (44 in-lb)
M6 10 7 5 (89 in-lb)
M8 20 15
M10 40 30

Table b. Bolt Diameter and Wrench Size

Bolt diameter Most Common Wrench Size
M5 8 mm
M6 10 mm
M8 12mm or 13mm
M10 17mm
M12 19mm
M14 22mm

Gaskets

The smoothes! metal mating surfaces still have imperfections that can allow leakage. To prevent leakage at critical joints, gaskets of soft, form-fitting material are used to fill in the imperfections.

To be most effective, gaskets are designed to crush and become thinner as the mating parts are bolted together. Once a gasket has been used and crushed, it is no longer capable of making as good a seal as when new, and is much more likely to leak. For this reason, gaskets should not be reused. Always plan to use new gaskets for any reassembly. Some gaskets — such as head gaskets are directional. Make sure that these are being installed correctly. This same logic applies to any part used for sealing, including rubber 0-rings and copper sealing washers.

Seals

In places where a shaft must pass through a housing, flexible lip seals are used to keep the lubricating oil or grease from leaking out past the rotating shaft.

Seals are designed to be installed in the housing only once and should never be reused. As long as they are not removed from the housing and not leaking, they need not be replaced. Seals, however, do age and deteriorate, and there is no easier time to replace them than when the car is already apart for some other repair.

When doing repairs that require removing a seal, be very careful not to scratch or otherwise damage the metal surfaces. Even minor damage to sealing surfaces can cause seal damage and leakage.

The key to seal installation is to get the seal in straight without damaging it. Use an object that is the same diameter as the seal housing to gently and evenly drive it into place. If a proper size seal driver is not available, a socket of the right size will do.

Coat the entire seal with oil to help it go in more easily. Seals are directional. Make sure that it is being installed with the lip facing the correct way. Normally the lip faces the inside. Notice the installation direction of the old seal before removing it.

Cleaning

Any repair job will be less troublesome if the parts are clean. For cleaning old parts, there are any number of solvents and parts cleaners available commercially.

For cleaning parts prior to assembly, commercially available aerosol cans of carburetor cleaner or brake cleaner are handy to use, and the cleaner will evaporate completely, leaving no residue.

WARNING

Virtually all solvents used for cleaning parts are highly flammable, especially in aerosol form. Use with extreme care. Do not smoke. Do not use these products near any source of sparks or flame

Letany solvent or cleaning product dry completely. Low-pressure, dry compressed air is helpful if available. Also, use only lint-free rags for cleaning and drying.