Steering Rack Replacement
#11092
10/24/97
Message Summary
Subject: Subject: Steering Rack Replacement
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Message from John Binford (jbinford@acq.osd.mil)
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Replacing the steering rack is a piece of cake...tedious, but eminently doable. A rebuilt rack costs ~$270 from Sweeney in PA, 412-238-0900. $75 core charge refunded upon return of core...they'll even give you a return # and UPS picks the core up at your door! 
The only thing odd you should have is a pair of stubby 16mm and 18mm open end or flare nut wrenches (two wrenches, not four) to get at the nuts that attach the powersteering lines to the rack.  You can finesse it with a 6" crescent, but the stubbies are better. 
You also need a 19mm deep socket or lots of elbow grease to pull off the mounting nuts/bolts at the ends of the rack. 
Clean and flush the PS system before you change out the rack...it's easier and less messy than doing it with the rack disconnected...the new rack warranty is also void if you put it in a system contaminated with metal filings/swarf. Read the instructions that come with the rebuilt rack and have fun.
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Message from Doug Hartwell (hartwell@bvt.gdarm.com)
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I had the rack go on my 84 900T. I made the mistake of getting a used rack from the junkyard, which ended up being bad, I got a replacement, which also turned out to be bad. I had to go to another junkyard, finally got a decent one, which lasted about a month before it too went on me. Morale of the story: Don't buy junkyard power steering rack. Much better off spending the $200 for a rebuilt. 
The job itself gets easier by the 3rd time but is still a pretty tough one for a novice. The hard parts are getting the steering nuckle off and on, and maneuvering the rack out of the car (it helps to take the left front wheel off. This is also the dirtiest job to attempt since you must spend a good couple of hours wrestling the thing out (while it drips PS fluid in your ears). I think the price you're getting quoted is a bit high. I would get the rack yourself and pay someone to put it in. If you look you can find rebuilt racks as low as $150.00 (it's a GM rack) and should be able to find someone that can get it installed in 2-3 hours pluys you'll need an alignment. Good luck!! 
Douglas Hartwell
'84 900T, 189K
'69 Sonett (in pieces, and looking for parts)
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Message from Ywan Mason (ymason@bellsouth.net)
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The racks we sell are about $200 and the labor is $200 including flushing the system. These racks carry a lifetime waranty. This is for a 900. 
To replace the rack,  first remove the cover and floor duct under the left dash. Total removal is not required, just undo the left most screw and fold them down so you can access the 13mm pinch bolt on the steering column shaft where the universal joint(knuckle) comes in. Loosen and remove the lowest bolt here. 
Raise the car and remove the front tires. Break loose the 22mm lock nuts holding the tie rods adjustment, then remove the 19mm nuts holding the tie rod ends to the spindles. If the tie rod end turns and the nuts won't come off, you can apply downward pressure on the tie rod end to hold it to get the nut off. Air tools are nice, zip, zip. Once you get the nuts off, turn the spindle so the tie rod end extends outward ( turn wheel to right  to remove left tie rod end etc). Hit the SPINDLE at the place for the tie rod end with a Big F Hammer and the tie rod will pop out. Be careful not to hit and damage the threads on the tie rod end. Using a splitting fork usually damages the tie rods boot allowing dirt in and grease out. A screw press works well if you have one. 
Reach in through the hole that the tie rod comes through on the left side of the car with a 13mm and a long extension. A swivel makes things easier. Turn the steering shaft so that you can access the 13mm bolt/nut in the column knuckle throough the hole. Put a wrench on the nut and the socket on the bolt and remove them. Slide the knuckle upwards off the rack. WD-40 makes it move easier, a flat screwdriver may be needed to spread it open. 
For the lines, I bought a Craftsman 16/18 flare nut wrench and cut it exactly in half. The fittings on the lines are 16/18. Put the wrench on the line and use something to pry on the wrench to loosen the lines. Have a container nearby to catch the old fluid as it flows out. There is usually a worm clamp going around the whole rack securing one of the lines to the rack and several tie wraps also. Remove the clamp by completely unscrewing it and cut the tie wraps. Don't forget to replace these as they are necessary to keep the lines out of harms way of the exhaust and belts. 
Remove the 2 19mm bolts and nuts holding the rack to the frame. I put a wrench on the nut from the tie rod end holes in the body and use a socket on the bottom bolt. Once you have the rack free, slide it slightly to the right and line up the shaft the steering column attaches to with the inner driver boot at a point where the boot is smaller. You may find it necessary to remove the speedo cable from the tranny to get clearance. It just unscrews and slides out. If you remove it, watch for its seal falling out(it usually stays put). When you put it back, make sure the inside square cable inserts into the drive gear. Now turn the rack so the shaft points down, being careful not to tear the inner driver boot. Play with it until you get it past, no forcing is required, it will clear when you get it to the correct position. Then push the rack as far to the right as you can. You'll have to lift on the rack bushing on the right to get it through the tie rod hole in the body. Then turn the shaft and extend it all the way to the right, the left side should drop down and out. Then just slide the whole rack to the left to get it out. 
Remove the tie rod ends and apply anti seize to their threads to prevent them from locking on the new rack. Count the turns till they come off and when you put them on the new rack, just run them in the same amount of turns. This will get you close to the same alignment. Apply some antiseize to the splines on the new rack's shaft. Put the rack in the same way you took the old one out. 
When you get ready to put the column back on the shaft, note that the shaft only fits one place. I find it easier to roughly center the rack( turn its shaft so that it would be steering straight ahead) and then turn the shaft until the notch in it for the pinch bolt faces the hole in the left side of the body where you removed the pinch bolt from. Then you can look and reach in this hole to put the column knuckle back on. Just center the slot in the knuckle on the notch and pull it home. You can now turn the shaft so that you can look through the bolt hole for the pinch bolt and adjust the knuckle up or down so that the bolt can pass through. Don't forget to retighten the pinch bolt inside the car and while you are there, apply some antiseize to the column where it passes through the rubber boot to eliminate squeaks.
 While the rack is out, you need to flush the system. Just route the lines to a suitable container and fill the reservoir with power steering fluid. Have several quarts(I use 6 to flush) open and within reach of the reservoir and have someone start the car. Keep pouring fluid into the reservoir and don't allow the pump to run dry. If the pump gets ahead of you, have your assistant turn off the engine and catch back up. Flush until the fluid runs out clean or you use 6 quarts. Then replace the o rings on the lines where they will attach to the rack. Take care on reassembly not to loose the orings, you might want to wait till you are actually putting in each line before putting on the new o rings. 
After you get it all back together and the tires on, you will need to set the toe and center the steering wheel. Turn the wheels so that they appear to be as straight ahead as possible. Take a tape measure and measure from a point on the front of one  front tire to the same point on the other front tire. I use the center thread groove. Then do the same thing from the same reference point on the rear of the front tires. Adjust the tie rod ends evenly( that is turn one as much as the other to keep the rack somewhat centered) until you get 1/16" difference between the two measurements with the measurement from the rear of the tires being the greatest. Turn the shafts coming into the tie rod ends to adjust. Be sure to loosen the clamps holding the rack boots to the tie rod end shafts before turning the shafts and make sure the boots don't twist when you turn the rods or they will tear. When you get the measurements right, lock down the 22mm nuts to secure the tie rods. If you feel insecurewith your adjustment or notice tire wear after a short time, have the car properly aligned. 
After filling the reservoir with fluid, start the car and then recheck the level. Then turn the steering wheel all the way  from side to side and recheck the level and check for any leaks from the repair. You might also want to check the other lines on the system for tightness of their clamps. On 8v's, check the clamp on the small return line on the back of the pump. On 16v's, check the clamp on the return line on the pump and the two hoses going to the reservoir. Be careful of the reservoir, they get brittle and cost more than they should, should you break off one of its nipples. If you have an earlier 16v with the white reservoir, they are bad about leaking where the black nipples join the white reservoir. You can try silicon to seal it, but the newer reservoir will fit here and is molded to eliminate the problem. 
Go on a test drive and find where the car steers straight, regardless of whether or not the wheel is straight. Then note where the wheel is. Drive back home and park the car with the wheel in the position it was in when the car drove straight. Pull out the center piece on non SRS cars and loosen but do not remove the 22mm nut securing the wheel to the shaft. Pull the wheel off by grasping either side of it and rocking it up. The nut will keep you from bashing your face with the wheel when it decides to pop loose. Then remove the nut, loosely place the wheel back on and turn it to the place where the car drove straight. Then remove the wheel and don't turn the shaft. Put the wheel back on so that it is straight and tighten the nut and replace the cover. On SRS cars, the procedure is the same except you need to remove the airbag to get at the nut. The air bag is held on with 2 either 27 or 30 torx screws that come into it from the back. Turn the wheel so that you can get at them one at a time. Locate and remove these, they won't come all the way out of the wheel, just out of the bag. Then , with the key off, lift up on the airbag and unplug its connector. the connector just pulls straight out of the airbag. As long as you leave the key off, you will not set a SRS code or set off the airbag. Turning the key on while the airbag is unplugged will set a code and necessitate a trip to the dealer to get it turned off. When you lift off the wheel, be sure of two things. One that the turn signal switch is in the neutral position. Two, that the horn contact wiring rests in its hole/slot in the wheel when you put it back on. You have to turn it to line up with the wheel or you will break it by forcing the wheel back on. 
A bit long and wordy, but I think you can get the job done from it, good luck. 
Ywan
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Message from James E. Ferro (j.e.ferro@worldnet.att.net)
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I'm what would probably pass for an "intermediate" level do-it-yourselfer. I replaced the rack on my 85 900S this summer. The part was $235, from Andrews, Inc. in Princeton, MN, by mailorder. The replacement rack is a rebuilt one. 
It's not terribly difficult. Loosening the nut which clamps the steering column on to the pinion shaft on the rack is one of the more difficult tasks. It's hard to reach. It's also somewhat of a trick wrestling the rack out of its position, and out from under the car. 
The Haynes manual is probably adequate in its description. I also have the Bentley manual, which is Saab authorized. 
Having also totally overhauled the clutch this fall, I can tell you that the clutch job was more difficult, and resulted in more loss of skin from my knuckles, than the steering rack job. The rack job took one evening, plus the following morning to complete. 
The $235 sure beats $700 or $800. 
Good luck with it. 
Jim in Ada, MI
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Message from Miller Jim F (Jim.F.Miller@siemenscom.com)
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I seem to recall replacing the rack on the '88 S, at about 250,000  miles for around $600.  That was new from S&S Auto Sales and Service,  an independent Saab-only mechanic.  BTW, these guys are great -  located just south of Gainesville, Va. on U.S. 29 here in Northern  Virginia.  Give 'em a call, they should be happy to give you quotes  over the phone; (540)349-2744.  Ask for Rick Stanley, he's the owner. 
Hope this helps, 
Jim Miller 
'74 99LE 4dr, the orange "Pumpkin" wrapped around a tree a few years  back
'74 99LE 3dr, Snowball; kept "Pumpkin's" engine alive for a while
'84 900 3dr, traded for...
'88 900S 3dr, 267,000 miles (and going, and going, and going....)
'97 900SET Talledega 3dr
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